L.L. Bean Signature Launch: Impressions
It’s not news to anyone that I’m a bit of an L.L. Bean fanboy. Naturally, I was pretty excited to see what Alex Carleton (formerly of Rogues Gallery) would do with the new line. The waxed-canvas Bean boots, unveiled in January, set the stage for some serious hype among the menswear blogosphere.
L.L. Bean Signature was released online this past Monday and I’m left somewhat underwhelmed but unsurprised. Alex Carleton played it real safe - sticking with “more of the same.” While Signature is certainly more inspiring as a collection than Land’s End Canvas, I can’t help but feel like J. Crew’s Frank Muytjens is doing a much better job at this game, without the historical pedigree of the L.L. Bean namesake.
Signature boasts all of the usual suspects: Ginghams, plaids, oxford cloth shirting and an unimaginative chambray work shirt. Aside from the Marine Supply sweater, the knitwear leaves much to be desired. Carleton chose rugged and timeless fabrics for the pants but the cuts look unappealing. The Featherweight Hunting Jacket finally hits a much needed chord of nostalgia, but it comes at a price. Unlined and insubstantial, the jacket clocks in at 180 USD - nearly a 100 dollars more than regular ol’ L.L. Bean’s Original Field Coat, lining and all.
I can’t help but feel a nagging sense that we’re being shortchanged. Any trip through eBay, a northeastern thrift store, or even my dad’s closet will reveal a myriad of fantastic garments from L.L. Bean’s storied history. I’m sure it makes more sense from a business perspective, but the decision to design largely uninspired basics that other companies already produce is in some way denying the inventiveness and “sheer awesome” of yesteryear’s L.L. Bean. With this collection, Carleton neither reinvented the brand nor did he conjure a strong nostalgia for its past. While one can’t exactly expect L.L. Bean to play things any way other than conservative, I’m still a little let down.
All that being said, there are still some pretty strong pieces in the collection. The footwear offerings are deservedly the focal point of Signature. The corduroy shorts are also standout, although they’d be exponentially better without the extra wide belt loops. Madras S/S shirts come in pleasing patterns and I’m partial to the Downeaster Sports Duffel in Red. A stainless steel Swiss watch and a US-made Field Belt with a brass duck emblem round out the collection well.
Head-to-toe L.L. Bean Signature, this is what I’d wear this Spring/Summer:
In the grand scheme of things, I feel like this is probably a good step for L.L. Bean. Despite its lukewarm first showing, I’m excited for the possibilities. I know Carleton is a competent designer, and seeing as how iconic L.L. Bean is better suited to Fall/Winter, I await eagerly to see what will roll out a few months down the road.
Let me know what you think of the collection in the comments section!
